Crunchy outside, sweet and pearly white inside, fried yellow perch from Lake Erie captures the taste of summer in northern Ohio.

You can catch it yourself here, even without owning a boat. Just step aboard the Linda Mae charter out of Wildwood State Park on the east side of Cleveland (16975 Wildwood Dr., off E. 174th St. and Lakeshore Blvd., 216-481-5771, www.wildwoodmarina.com). The Linda Mae folks will sell you a pass for four or six hours of cruising, along with a one-day fishing license. They can rent you equipment and show you how to use it. Best of all, when you catch something, you can pay them to clean it.>>